2:26 AM

January - Pot Rack

The Best Articles on Pot Rack

Secrets to Becoming a Wine Connoisseur

Wine is a broad term that refers to the fermentation of plant matter for the purpose of producing an alcoholic beverage. Of course, most people think of grapes as the basis for wine, but other sources include rice (sake), various fruits (elderberry, grapefruit, cherry, etc.), barley, and even honey (mead).

For the purposes of this short explanation, we ll stick with wines made from grapes. These are categorized several ways, including by vinification methods, taste, and vintage. Many casual drinkers pay little attention to the differences in these categories. After all, for most folks the sole consideration is good taste. However, for many aficionados wine is serious business. The variety, taste, and vintage must all meet high expectations before serious collectors will consider owning a bottle.

Vinification

Vinification simply means the method by which grape juice is fermented into wine. The practices followed during fermentation are what determine the type of wine you end up being able to purchase. A common misunderstanding by the average drinker is that grape juice colors vary, which is what produces red, white, or rose wines. Actually, all grapes produce clear (or very close to clear) juices. What creates the color of the wine you buy is whether the grape skins have been left in contact with the juice during the fermentation process. Red wines have been fermented thusly; whites have not fermented in contact with grape skins; rose is a combination of the two.

Sparkling wines, such as champagne, have bubbly characteristics that are caused by the addition of carbon dioxide. This effect is achieved by fermenting the grape juice two times. The first time, the juice is fermented in open containers, which allow the carbon dioxide to escape. During the second fermentation, the juice is kept in closed containers, trapping and infusing the gases.

Taste

Most wines are described as dry, off-dry, fruity, or sweet. Technically, this refers to the amount of sugars left over after fermentation is completed. Dry has a tiny amount of residual sugar content, while sweet has high sugar content.

Beyond this basic taste classification, wine-tasting experts have developed a system of classifying wines by the more in-depth tastes and aromas they exude. Many outsiders find this a somewhat bewildering system, but tasting pros consider the ability to discern subtle elements of a wines taste to be a badge of honor. As one example, Cabernet Sauvignon is a popular variety that wine tasters claim contains a combination of black currants, chocolate, mint, and tobacco flavors.

Vintage

Vintage is a straightforward classification. It refers to the year of the grapes harvest from which a bottle of wine was made. This is important because many grape growers have exceptionally good harvests only during certain years. Also, the best grapes are usually singled out for use in a producers vintage bottles. You get the highest quality wine from that year?s harvest.

About The Author

Fred London - Fred, who has an acute wine palate show you how to keep wine at its best. Learn more Tips for Wine Storage at: http://www.AboutWineRefrigerators.com.

Thoughts about Pot Rack

Secrets to Becoming a Wine Connoisseur

Wine is a broad term that refers to the fermentation of plant matter for the purpose of producing an alcoholic beverage. Of course, most people think...

Click Here to Read More About Wine ...

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Wine Label
Southern Wine
Wine Makers | Wine Making

Labels: Make Wine

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1:34 AM

2009 - Carlee Wine

A Carlee Wine Artilce for Your Viewing

Growing Apples for Great Wine

There are countless varieties of apples in general cultivation in this country and all have their likes and dislikes - yet all the all-round varieties seem to do well almost anywhere.

Like all fruits they like to be treated well and will reward those who remember this. I am concerned with growing apples and other fruits such as plums for wine-making; therefore there seems little point in covering the growing of these fruits in the espalier fashion or as cordons. Apart from the fact that the average home-grower will not want this type of tree, he will want as much fruit as he can get from as little space as he can allow. No one will dispute the quality of fruits grown as cordons, but they are expensive to start with and cannot hope to compete with the bush tree when a lot of fruit is the aim of the grower.

The bush tree is the most suitable for the small garden where the owner wants as much fruit as he can get from a small space and for a minimum of labor.

Deep digging is essential, for it must be remembered that trees, once planted, will remain perhaps the lifetime of the owner.

The roots of apples go a great deal deeper than is generally imagined and provided the right variety for the type of soil is planted, the trees will settle down and fruit well. Unless your garden is in what we call a frost hole - a natural depression in the lie of the land that catches the spring frosts harder than elsewhere and then catches the first rays of the morning sun - you can grow apples without fear of the frosts depriving you of your crops.

Bush apples are usually planted ten to twelve feet apart and are put in before Christmas. Early February is the latest that I would leave this job.

Prepare the soil well in advance and allow it to settle before planting. Six months in advance is not too early to get the first digging done if the soil has never before been broken.

When planting, take out holes a good bit larger than are required to accommodate all the roots without cramping. The depth of the hole will depend on the depth the young tree had been planted before it was delivered to you and this will be clearly marked on the young trunk.

Any roots damaged in transit should be cut off cleanly with a sharp knife.

It is best to drive a stake firmly into the middle of the hole and to tie the tree to this while planting. Spread out the roots, shovel sifted soil over them and firm each layer by treading. Rattle the tree occasionally so that the soil is shaken down between the roots. Plant firmly; insecure planting is the most frequent cause of deaths among young trees. When firmly planted, untie the tree from the stake and bind the trunk with felt or some other material and bind this part to the stake. This will prevent chafing of the bark.

For general purposes it is best not to prune a young tree during the first season after planting, but pruning thereafter is of the greatest importance. Not only does it keep the tree in shape but it prevents overcrowding and ensures regular and heavy fruiting.

In the case of bush apples, each leading shoot - that is the growing tip of each main branch - is cut back by about six inches. The young growths growing off this main branch are laterals; these must not be allowed to become branches otherwise the tree will become overcrowded. These laterals are pruned back to leave four or five buds.

The following precautions should be taken against pests and diseases. Spray during winter with a tar-distillate wash. Spray with a nicotine wash in spring, when the buds begin to open and again a week after the petals have fallen. Fix grease bands to the trunks.

About the Author

Brian Cook is a freelance writer whose articles on gardening and home wine making have appeared in print and on many websites. You can find more of these at: Homemade Wine

Another short Carlee Wine review

Growing Apples for Great Wine

There are countless varieties of apples in general cultivation in this country and all have their likes and dislikes - yet all the all-round varieties...

Click Here to Read More About Wine ...

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Wine Fermentation
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